An Afternoon at Avignon: Japanese Cuisine at Naka

‘Is that a Japanese restaurant?’ I asked my friend as we looked down Place de la Principale in Avignon.

A man walking past overheard us.

‘Yes,’ he replied enthusiastically. ‘We've just been. It’s really good.’

There are few recommendations that carry more weight than an endorsement from someone who has just finished eating at a restaurant, and after dining at Naka, I understood exactly why he had been so quick to recommend it.

Naka is a Japanese restaurant located at 4 Place de la Principale in Avignon, in the department of Vaucluse. The restaurant occupies a discreet position just off the surrounding streets, but opens onto a beautiful historic square where its main entrance and outdoor terrace are surrounded by elegant old buildings. The name ‘Naka’ means ‘middle’ or ‘centre’ in Japanese, which is particularly fitting as the restaurant sits in the centre of the square.

The Chapel of the White Penitents, also known as the Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs, is directly opposite the front entrance of Naka. Its elegant stone façade provides a beautiful backdrop for the restaurant's outdoor seating, particularly during the warmer months when diners spill out into the square.

The chapel itself rewards a closer look. Above the entrance, two kneeling penitents face one another in prayer and reverence, while a saintly figure occupies the central position above them. This helps the setting feel peaceful and unhurried, with people often stopping to admire the chapel as they walk past, making the location alone worth a visit.

The building further catches your attention as you walk towards the restaurant. A detailed cherry blossom motif decorates the sign above the entrance and on either side are recessed openings protected by cream-coloured metal grilles. Behind them are decorative panels or posters featuring Japanese-inspired artwork, including samurai figures, calligraphy, swords and the rising-sun motif. It is a memorable detail that sits beautifully alongside the historic architecture of the square.

Hidden behind cream-coloured grilles, Japanese-inspired artwork provides one of the restaurant's most distinctive exterior details.

The interior combines rustic charm with contemporary Japanese style. Exposed stone walls, a comfortable brown leather sofa and warm lighting create an inviting atmosphere from the moment you enter. As you enter, the chefs can be seen working in the partially open kitchen to the left, with a stylish bar and additional seating occupying the opposite side. Both the interior and outdoor seating areas are beautifully designed and equally appealing and the restaurant feels instantly lively yet also relaxed.

A particular highlight was the Aubergines façon Naka. The aubergine had been carefully scored before being cooked and glazed with a rich sweet-and-savory miso sauce that became beautifully sticky and caramelised. I ordered the aubergine with rice and edamame and it was a balanced dish full of flavour and texture. The total came to €5.90 for the aubergine and €2.90 for the rice, which I thought was very reasonable.

Aubergines façon Naka glazed in a rich sweet-and-savory miso sauce and served with rice.

There were also other dishes on the menu that stood out including the Soupe de Udon Japonais and skewers (brochettes) featuring gambas or courgette. The menu also offered a wide range of sushi, tempura and included Raviolis Japonais, the Japanese dumplings more commonly known as gyoza. The variety makes it easy to imagine returning and trying something different each time.

The drinks selection deserves mention as well. There is a wide range of choices of Japanese sake, Japanese whisky and several varieties of green tea that provide excellent accompaniments to the food.

Naka offers an extensive selection of Japanese sake alongside Japanese whisky and green tea.

A large part of why I loved Naka so much was its location within Avignon, a city that is beautiful to explore before or after a meal. The Palais des Papes, located within walking distance of the restaurant, served as the official residence of the Popes between 1309 and 1377 during the period when the papacy moved from Rome to Avignon. This period was later followed by the Western Schism, when rival claimants to the papacy existed simultaneously.

The famous Pont Saint-Bénézet, better known as the Pont d'Avignon, is also nearby. The bridge once crossed the Rhône completely, but centuries of flooding and conflict have left only four surviving arches extending partway across the river. The Remparts d'Avignon are equally impressive. These fourteenth-century fortifications encircle the historic centre and remain among the best-preserved medieval city walls in France, serving as a reminder of the city's importance during the Middle Ages.

Avignon offered a welcome contrast to cities like London, where daily life can often feel hurried and demanding. It was buzzing and lively, but it never felt rushed, stressful or unfriendly.

I'd recommend Naka to anyone seeking refuge from the Provençal sun during the heat of the day or enjoying some food later in the evening after walking around the city. The square is especially beautiful and romantic, with people stopping to admire the chapel or enjoy a drink.

If I had to compare the feeling to anything, it would be being in the sea in the south of France with a drink in your hand after a really good meal, feeling completely at ease and knowing there was still the rest of the afternoon or evening to enjoy. It was easy to understand why the passer-by had been so quick to recommend it.

The driver that took me part way to the restaurant...